اطلاعات عمومی

مراحل تغییر ضریب فاینال درایو دیفرانسیل جی تی ۸۶ در تهران بخش دوم Toyota GT86 FRS BRZ Final Drive ratio 4.88 swap

فوریه 4, 2016
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اول اینکه ما ۴ نفر بودیم با یک کارخونه مجهز به همه ابزار الات مکانیکی و تسلط کامل بابا مهدی گل به ساخت قطعات با دقت بالا . یکی کاملا به مکانیک و باز و بسته کردن دف تسلط داشت و دیگری به اطلاعات تنظیمات عددی شیم گیری و بک لش دف و دیگر تنظیمات که هر دو از ایرتویا اومده بودند و سالها تجربه کار در ایراتویا رو داشتند. من و بابا مهدی گل که ایشون امکانات کارخونشون رو در اختیار گذاشتند برای انجام پروژه و من هیچوقت لطف ایشون رو فراموش نمیکنم. پروژه در دو مرحله یکبار ۱۱ ساعت و مرحله دوم ۸ ساعت طول کشید.

قبل از باز کردن دف بهتره تو بازار بگردید این روغن رو هر جور شده پیدا کنید چون بدون این روغن نمیشه دف رو سالم راه اندازی کرد. روغن دیگری نمیتونه جایگزین این روغن بشه و اگر این روغن پیدا نشد بیخیال باز کردن دف بشید:

برای انجام کار باید حدود ۲۵۰ هزار تومن پول گریس مارکر مخصوص برای رنگ زدن روی دندانه های دف بدید که مشخص بشه کجای دنده ها با هم اتصال دارند . اینو از شرکت تولیران خریدم در میدان توپخانه (تلفن ۶۶۷۰۰۹۲۸ و  ۶۶۷۴۰۵۹۷ با ادرس www.tooliran.com).

این وسایل هم مورد نیاز هست .

پایه برای زیر ماشین :

 

کولیس و میکرومتر با دقت یک صدم میلیمتر :

 

حدیده (تمیزکننده رزوه برای انتهای پینیون) :

 

آچار تورکمتر با رنج ۱۹-۱۱۰ نیوتن متر و آچار تورکمتر با رنج ۳۵۰-۱۱۰ نیوتن متر :

 

ترکمتر ۰-۵ نیوتن متر:

 

دستگاه ساعت اندیکاتور با دقت یک صدم میلیمتر:

 

دستگاه باد برای تمیز کردن قطعات و داخل دف و ظرف شستشوی گازوییلی :

 

خب میریم سراغ باز کردن دف :

http://toyota86.ir/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/28.jpg

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اینم شروع در کارخانه بابا مهدی:

http://toyota86.ir/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/37.jpg

http://toyota86.ir/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/39.jpg

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سرویس های دوره ای تویوتا جی تی ۸۶

سپتامبر 16, 2015
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برای مدل اتوماتیک جی تی ۸۶ در ایران :
۱٫ مایع شیشه شور رو بررسی کنید و فیلتر و روغن موتور رو هم تو منوال زده ۱۵۰۰۰ تا مدل ۰w-20 اما من پیشنهادم اینه تو تهران زیر ۱۰ هزار کیلومتر روغن ۰w-20 رو عوض کنید و اگر از روغن ۵w-30 استفاده میکنید چون عدد TBN اون کمتره بهتره زیر ۷۰۰۰ کیلومتر تو تهران عوض بشه.
۲٫ روغن ترمز هر ۳۰ هزار تا عوض شود مدل DOT 3 , 4 , 5.1
۳٫ روغن دیفرانسیل هر ۳۰ هزار تا عوض شود. روغن پیشنهادی من ادینول یا هیچ برند دیگری در بازار نیست چون این روغن LSD رو ساپورت نمیکنه و حتما باید از روغن ۱۷۰ هزار تومنی خود تویوتا استفاده کنید. ۱٫۱۵ لیتر با کد API GL5 75w-85 و یا API GL5 75w-90

۴٫ فیلتر اتاق هر ۴۵ هزار تا عوض شود که تو ترافیک و آلودگی شهر تهران طبیعتا این عدد کمتر خواهد بود
۵٫ روغن گیربکس اتوماتیک هر ۶۰ هزار کیلومتر ۷٫۵ لیتر ، پیشنهاد من اگر روغن اصلی خود تویوتا نبود ادینول  هست ATF XN Plus
۶٫ فیلتر بنزین هر ۹۰ هزار کیلومتر که طبیعتا با بنزین ایران این عدد کمتر خواهد بود

۷٫ شمع ها هر ۹۰۰۰۰ تا حتما خود شمع اصلی رو بگیرید و متفرقه نندازید

رزرو وقت از ایرتویا دماوند خانم خامسی : ۷۳۴۵۲۴۰۶
تهیه روغن گیربکس ادینول :۶۶۵۰۸۲۲۸

تهیه روغن دیفرانسل LSD تویوتا از ایرتویا : ۷۳۴۵۲۴۰۶

چند مورد در باب خنک نگه داشتن موتور وقتی در تابستان زیاد به ماشین فشار میاورید (برای ماشین های فورس اینداکشن و یا تنفس طبیعی تیون شده) :
۱٫ مهمتر از همه پایین نگه داشتن دمای روغن توسط Oil Cooler هست خصوصا که ما از ۰w-20 استفاده میکنیم. برند خوب HKS هست.
۲٫ اهمیت Oil Cooler از Radiator بزرگتر بیشتره بنابراین بهتره اول Oil Cooler نصب بشه و اگر پاسخ گو نبود سراغ رادیاتور بزرگتر میرویم. رادیاتور خوب Koyo هست و Mishimoto
۳٫ استفاده از Oil Catch Can برای جداسازی بخارات روغن
۴٫ استفاده از ترموستات با دمای پایینتر که به اعتقاد اکثریت چنین کاری پیشنهاد نمیشه و موجب استهلاک بیشتر موتور هم میشه. برند خوب Cosworth هست.

فقط نکته ای که لازم شد اضافه کنم اینه:
اگر ماشین رو بعد از مدتی کارکرد خاموش کردید و بعد از مثلا یکساعت دوباره روشن کردید و دمای اب نرمال بود نباید به موتور ناگهانی فشار بیارید چون دمای اب نشانه دمای روغن نیست.
اول ماشینو چند دقیقه راه ببرید و دور موتور رو کم کم بالاتر ببرید تا روغن به دمای نرمال برسه و بعد به ماشین فشار بیارید.

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مفهوم Pedal Dance Mode چیست؟

می 18, 2015
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جی تی چند مد داره که میتونید کنترل هرزگردی (ترکشن) رو خاموش یا روشن کنید و یا کنترل پایداری رو فعال – غیر فعال – فعال بصورت اسپرت نگه دارید و یا همه این کنترل ها رو غیر فعال کنید.
تو حالتی که همه کنترل ها با فشردن و نگه داشتن ۵ ثانیه ای TRC کاملا غیر فعال بشوند ظاهرا باز هم همه سیستم ها از مدار خارج نمیشوند.

برای از مدار خارج کردن همه اینها برای استفاده در پیست مسابقات روشی وجود دارد که ماشین رو به مد Pedal Dance Mode میبره و اینو اضافه کنم این کار خطرناک بوده چون حتی تو سرعت های بالای ۱۴۰ کیلومتر هم کل کنترل سیستم با راننده میباشد و خواهش من اینه این سیستم رو تو پیست یا جایی که ۱۰۰% خلوت و قابلیت کنترل دارید امتحان کنید.

رفتن به مد Pedal Dance طبق مراحل زیر هست :
۱٫ ماشین رو روشن کنید و صبر کنید تا کاملا دمای موتور به درجه کارکرد برسه
۲٫ ترمز دستی رو که در حالت خوابیده هست سه بار پشت سر هم بکشید و آزاد کنید که در حالت سوم همون بالا بماند
۳٫ پدال ترمز را پشت سرهم سه بار فشار دهید و در دفعه سوم آنرا پایین نگه دارید و رها نکنید
۴٫ عملیات مرحله ۲ را تکرار کنید (در این حالت همچان پای شما روی پدال ترمز آنرا در پایین نگه داشته است)
۵٫ پایتان را از روی پدال ترمز برداشته ، سپس دوبار پدال ترمز را با پا فشار دهید.

بعد از انجام مراحل بالا دو تا چراغ TRC و VSC روشن میشود.

نکات:
– مراحل بالا را باید در کمتر از ۳۰ ثانیه انجام دهید.
– برای برگشتن به مد نرمال و فعال کردن سیستم ترکشن و پایداری تنها راه خاموش کردن ماشین و روشن کردن مجدد آن است.
– تو حالت Pedal Dance دیگر کلید های TRC و VSC کارایی نداشته ولی کلید تعویض دنده بصورت Sport کار خواهد کرد.

Pedal Dance Mode – Completely Deactivate Traction/Stability control – Use with caution – recommended for Track Driving only
Car MUST be at operating Temperature temperature before Pedal Dance Mode will work.

Note Pedal Dance Mode completely disables almost ALL braking/stability/traction control functions this is far more than pushing the buttons on the center console does traction stabiliy is still partially active even after pushing these buttons -be warned – for track use only

EBD- Electronic Brake-force distribution is disabled
ICE Mode Braking is disabled
All Traction Control disabled
All Stability control disabled
Panic Brake function disabled
Electronic Diff or Auto Limited slip diff function disabled
No emergency re-engage of traction/stability systems at speeds over 140kmh if system detects slide/loss of traction

ABS – Anti lock braking still active

Pedal dance mode is an automated method of doing this:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25494

The “Pedal Dance” testing

I don’t remember the original post (and a quick search didn’t find it…), but someone had posted up a sequence to turn off additional electronics in the car. The sequence is as follows:- Turn on the car. The car must be FULLY warmed up. You must do the entire sequence within 30 seconds of starting the car.
– Pull the e-brake 3 times. Hold/lock the e-brake on the 3rd pull.
– Press the brake pedal 3 times. Hold it down the third time.
– Pull the hand brake 3 more times. Hold/lock the hand brake on the 3rd pull
– Press the brake pedal 2 more times.
– On the last press of the brake pedal, two yellow lights should have come on.I purposely used staggered brake compounds to test whether the brake dance does anything; here are my conclusions.- The pedal dance eliminates electronic brake force distribution.
– The pedal dance also eliminates the “panic brake” function.
– I tried trail braking mid-turn with the “normal” electronic aids off, but without the pedal dance. This resulted in a spin; the car literally locked up the rear brakes. My speculation is that the car recognized the fronts locking up, and put additional force on the rear brakes. The problem here, is that I had purposely put a much lower friction pad in the back, so it kept sending more and more brake pressure to the back, until it just locked. Once it locked, it stayed locked, even though I was not stepping on the brakes.
– I tried this again a few more times. Same result.
– I then tried again, but with a rear brake bias. This time, pressing on the brakes mid-turn or trail braking always resulted in the car straightening out and/or plowing.
– With the pedal dance, I can trail brake or brake in the middle of a turn for rotation just fine, regardless of pad setup.Moral of the story: if you’re driving on a track or at an autocross, do the pedal dance! (Remember, ALL aids will be off)All testing was done on a closed course, at the “Balcony”, courtesy of Willow Springs Raceway.

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پاسخ به برخی ابهامات در خصوص روغن ادینول

فوریه 17, 2015
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از شرکت محترم فراآسیا خواهش کردم مطالب و مستنداتی رو برای برطرف کردن شبهات در ذهن کاربرانی که هنوز تردید دارند روغن های ادینول توزیع شده توسط شرکت فراآسیا در خود آلمان تولید میگردد یا نه برای من ارسال نمایند.

خوشبختانه مدیر عامل محترم این شرکت جناب آقای مهندس یزدی به این درخواست پاسخ مثبت دادند و مستندات لازم رو برای من ارسال نمودند.

دلیل این موضوع عدم اطمینان دوستان جی تی سوار نبود و دلیل پیگیری من به رفع ابهامات برخی از کاربران انجمن تیونینگ تاک بدلیل پر بودن بازار از روغن های تقلبی با مارک های خارجی معروف بود.

متاسفانه برخی کاربران بدون داشتن اطلاعات دقیق و درست عمدا یا سهوا اظهار نظراتی میکنند که باعث ایجاد ابهاماتی در دیگر کاربران میگردید.

متن نامه جناب مهندس یزدی از سوی شرکت محترم فراآسیا :

http://toyota86.ir/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/تالارگفتگوی-تیونینگ.pdf

“مخاطبان و مشترکان محترم تالار گفتگوی تیونینگ تاک:
متأسفانه مطالب ظاهراً انتقادی ولی به قصد تخریب به قلم شخصی با نام مستعار هورامان در رابطه با روغنهای خودروئی کمپانی ADDINOL آلمان که با آخرین تکنولوژی روز در آلمان تولید و دارای صدها تأییدیه از کمپانی های خارجی تولید کننده خودرو میباشد ملاحظه نمودم . به نظر و جهان بینی این شرکت بحث، دیالوگ و انتقاد از چیزی برای عینیت دادن به واقعیت آن موضوع و بخصوص جهت تنویر افکار عمومی کار فوق العاده مفید و ارزشمند است به شرط آنکه اطلاعات و آمار ارائه داده شده فنی مستند و از منابع معتبر دریافت شده باشد مثل موسسه استاندارد و تحقیقات صنعتی ایران، پژوهشگاه صنعت نفت و یا آزمایشگاه های معتبر خارجی باشد.
جهت اطلاع نویسنده عرض می نمایم اظهارات کذب و خلاف واقع دقیقاً مصداق جرم افتراء و نشر اکاذیب بوده که با پیگیری از طریق دادسرای جرائم رایانه ای (فضای مجازی ) و پلیس فتا و اثبات جرم در قوه قضائیه طبق ماده ۶۹۷ و ۶۹۸ قانون مجازات اسلامی از چهار ماه تا دو سال حبس و تا ۷۴ ضربه شلاق مجازات برای فرد مجرم به همراه دارد.
معرفی کمپانی ADDINOL آلمان :
اینجانب به نمایندگی از طرف شرکت مهندسی ماشین آلات فراآسیا نماینده رسمی و انحصاری فروش و پشتیبانی مهندسی کمپانی ADDINOL آلمان در سراسر ایران و بعنوان مشاور روانسازهای تخصصی و فوق تخصصی در صنایع نظامی، پتروشیمی ها، خودرو های داخلی و نمایندگی های خودروهای خارجی و….. مطالبی را در بخش تاپیک جامع روغن موتورها مطالعه و توضیحات ذیل را جهت آگاهی مخاطبان عزیز و تنویر افکار عمومی را ارائه می نماید.
۱) کمپانی ADDINOL آلمان بعنوان یکی از بزرگترین و مجهزترین کارخانجات تولید روغنهای خودروئی و صنعتی در اروپا و آلمان با بیش از ۷۵ سال سابقه تولید، فقط و فقط کلیه محصولات خود را در سایت خود در آلمان تولید وبسته بندی نهائی نموده و به بیش از ۹۵ کشور در دنیا صادر می نماید . بر اساس سیاست مبتنی بر حفظ اصالت محصولات خود که جزء لاینفک سیاست جهانی این کمپانی می باشد تحت هیچ شرایطی در هیچ کشوری حتی در کشورهای اروپائی مجوز ساخت یا لایسنس بسته بندی داده نشده است.
۲) کلیه روغنهای خودروئی عرضه شده توسط شرکت مهندسی ماشین آلات فراآسیا به عنوان تنها نماینده رسمی و پشتیبانی آلمان در ایران بصورت بسته بندی شده آماده مصرف مستقیماً از آلمان وارد و از گمرکات کشور ADDINOL مهندسی کمپانی ترخیص می گردد.
۳) با توجه به تجهیزات فوق پیشرفته و متنوع آزمایشگاه کمپانی ADDINOL آلمان ،این آزمایشگاه با دارا بودن گواهی تأییدیه بعنوان یک آزمایشگاه مرجع (آکرودیته) در آلمان جهت تست انواع روغنهای مورد استفاده بسیاری از شرکتها ISO /IEC 17025 و موسسات تحقیقاتی قرار می گیرد.
۴) با توضیحات بند ۳ کلیه محصولات کمپانی ADDINOL قبل از بسته بندی تحت سخت ترین شرایط تست مورد بررسی در آزمایشگاه مرجع خود قرار گرفته و پس از تأیید نهائی برای آن گواهی کیفی تولید و اجازه بسته بندی صادر می گردد. کلیه گواهی ها مربوط به هر دسته تولیدی با ذکر مشخصات تاریخ تولیدی و شماره به عنوان اسناد اصلی کیفی جهت ( Batch) ردیابی کالا به خریدار در سراسر دنیا ارائه می گردد. جهت نمونه چند سری از این اسناد ضمیمه می باشد.
۵) بعد از ورود هر سفارش به گمرک با توجه به استاندارد اجباری روغنهای موتور ، بصورت تصادفی از هر کد محصول توسط شرکت بازرسی مستقر در گمرک نمونه برداری شده و جهت تطابق با استاندارد به آزمایشگاه مورد تأیید موسسه استاندارد گمرک ارسال می گردد. بعد از تأیید کیفی و ماهیتی روغن اجازه ترخیص ازگمرک صادر می گردد. جهت اطلاع یک نمونه از نتایج تست روغن SEMI SYNTH 1040 مربوط به ماه ۸ سال ۹۳ که مورد ادعا و آزمون توسط یکی از کاربران قرار گرفته ارائه می گردد.
در نتیجه این آزمون همانطور که مشاهده می گردد میزان Flash Point (نقطه اشتعال) روغن ۲۲۵ درجه سلسیوس ذکر گردیده که بر اساس نرم افزار استاندارد  ASTM D92 مورد آنالیز قرار گرفته است .
۶) جهت اطلاع مخاطبان محترم این تالار گفتگو روغن ادعائی تست شده ۱۰۴۷ SEMY SYNTH MV بیش از یکسال و نیم است که با روغن جدید SEMY SYNTH 1040 توسط سازنده روغن جایگزین گردیده که ضمن پاسخگوئی به استانداردهای جدید فولکس واگن پاسخگوی سطح کیفی B4 بر اساس استاندارد اروپائی ACEA می باشد .لذا ادعای تأمین نمونه اصیل روغن با کد MV1047 که بیش از یکسال و نیم است که در بازار ایران عرضه نمی گردد تعجب برانگیز است! جهت اطلاع مخاطبان محترم گزارش اطلاع رسانی مورخ ۰۳٫۰۵٫۲۰۱۳ کمپانی ADDINOL ارائه می گردد.

http://toyota86.ir/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/آنالیز-روغن.pdf

۷) به جرأت می توان عنوان کرد روغنهای خودروئی کمپانی ADDINOL آلمان با بیش از ۳۰۰ تأییدیه های مختلف از اکثر کمپانی های بزرگ خودرو ساز دنیا ، استثناً محصول اصلی و با کیفیت آلمانی است که با بیش از ۳۵ نوع روغن مختلف خودروئی در بازار ایران حضور داشته و بعنوان روغن اصلی تأیید شده توسط کمپانی های Mercedes Benz ,BMW (ستاره ایران – نمایندگی رسمی بنز در ایران) ( پرشیا خودرو – نمایندگی رسمی بی ام و در ایران ) عملاً تایید و مورد استفاده قرار می گیرد.
۸) شرکت فرا آسیا بعنوان نماینده رسمی و انحصاری فروش و پشتیبانی مهندسی کمپانی ADDINOL آلمان در ایران آمادگی کامل دارد یک نمونه روغن ۱۰۴۰ SEMY SYNTH که از یکی از شبکه های رسمی پخش این شرکت تأمین گردیده به هزینه خود و با حضور نماینده کاربران در یک آزمایشگاه معتبرو یا پژوهشگاه صنعت نفت مورد آزمون و بررسی قرار دهد و در صورت عدم صحت ادعای مطروحه این شرکت ضمن محفوظ دانستن حق خود جهت پیگیری قضایی موضوع، کسی عامدانه اقدام به تخریب افکار عمومی نسبت به روانسازهای خودروئی” ADDINOL آلمان ننماید .

اطلاعات بیشتر بصورت PDF از تاییدیه بنز و فولکس واگن :

http://toyota86.ir/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/1040-VW-approval.pdf

http://toyota86.ir/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/1040-MB-approval.pdf

اطلاعات بیشتر در مورد روغن ۱۰۴۰ :

 

http://toyota86.ir/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/semi-synth-1040-manufacturer-certificate.pdf

http://toyota86.ir/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Explenation.pdf

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Ethanol Petrol Emulsion

نوامبر 12, 2014
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اتانول خالص ۹۹٫۷% براحتی با بنزین قاطی میشه اما حتی اگر ۲% هم آب داشته باشه یعنی ۹۸% هم باشه با بنزین قاطی نمیشه.

Well first off, pure ethanol is hygroscopic; it attracts water, to the point that it will pull it out of the air. Ethanol and gasoline will mix, but ethanol, gasoline and water will not; the ethanol-water mixture will come out of solution and settle on the bottom of your tank. Add a little oxygen to the mix, and you get rust. However, the more common side effect of this is more immediate; turn the car on, and the fuel pump will draw the water from the bottom of the tank into the engine, where it will promptly kill it, and require a costly dry-out process.
Down here in the south, where it’s hot and humid most of the year, you hear a news story or two about this every year, usually when a gas station didn’t properly purge its storage tank on a regular basis. The regular addition of thousands of gallons of fresh ethanol fuel “recharges” this hygroscopic process, causing a rather large pool of water to form at the bottom of the tank which the station is supposed to drain regularly. If they don’t, and you fill up when the store’s tank is just a little too low, or just a little too soon after the tanker’s refilled it, the pump will draw a water-gas emulsion, or even straight water, into your tank, and the water will settle to the bottom.
The usual fix for long-term storage of ethanol fuel is to add a stabilizer, which will contain a high concentration of isopropanol. The main thing that will do is form an azeotropic mixture with water, meaning that its components will evaporate at the same rate, so when the isopropanol evaporates, it takes the water with it. This same mixture, in sufficient concentration, will also burn, so while it’s not the greatest thing for your engine it can at least be flushed out the normal way.
Second, gasoline, as you probably well know, isn’t a pure substance; it was originally what was left over after the refinery had extracted the “useful” heavier compounds (kerosene, diesel fuel, lubricating oil, paraffin waxes) out of crude oil by fractional distillation. Nowadays it’s much more carefully purpose-made by thermal decomposition of heavier alkanes, but it’s still an amalgam of relatively lightweight carbon compounds (usually between 6-12 carbons, with the dividing line for “octane rating” drawn between heptane and octane), plus additives and pollutants. It contains three components of interest; sulfur (a naturally occurring pollutant and difficult to remove completely; “summer blend” gas in the U.S. is more expensive because they have to get rid of more of it to prevent smog and acid rain), oxygen (modern fuels are oxygenated to make them more clean-burning), and ethanol (added to make the fuel burn cleaner and be more sustainable to produce than neat gasoline).
In the presence of water (pulled in by the ethanol) and oxygen, sulfur naturally forms sulfuric acid by a variation of the “contact process”; it oxidizes easily to sulfur dioxide, then more slowly to sulfur trioxide, which when dissolved in water becomes sulfuric acid. This reaction, specifically the formation of sulfur trioxide, is sped up in industrial processes by heat and by contact with catalyst metals such as vanadium oxide (hence “contact process”), but it will also happen on its own without any special treatment (i.e. acid rain).
This sulfuric acid will do a lot of corrosion damage, reacting with the tank’s sheet metal producing hydrates of iron sulfate. When burned, those sulfates decompose into iron oxides and sulfur dioxide again, which do more damage to your exhaust system on the way out (rust is a catalyst for more rust, and we’ve discussed sulfur dioxide’s contribution to the party in detail). In addition, sulfuric acid is even more hygroscopic than ethanol; at concentrations in water as low as 10%, it’ll attract more water. Lastly, acids and alcohols form esters, in our case ethyl sulfate, and esters and alcohols form ethers, here diethyl ether (with the sulfuric acid and water as a byproduct). These are reversible and ultimately circular reactions, which will form an equilibrium of roughly equal concentrations of the intermediates. A dehydration reaction to produce ethylene is also possible in very high acid-to-water concentrations of sulfuric acid (possible when filling up in the winter, when it’s dry and the gas has more sulfur). Ethylene will form a number of intermediate products with just about anything in that gas tank, some better for your engine than others (ethylbenzene is an antiknock compound; methyl ethyl ketone is a solvent and a pollutant byproduct of combustion engines).

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Opensource Tuning

اکتبر 29, 2014
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http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/tuning-electronic-engine-management/134322320-opensource-tuning-your-questions-answered-here-romraider-tactrix.html

There seems to be increasing misinformation/questions about how Opensource tuning software works. This is just an overview to give a general understanding of what the software actually does or can do as opposed to a “how do I tune?”guide or how to use the software. Included are links to info about getting started using Opensource software and other information for those curious to learn more about self tuning. The links below are Subaru based tuning in general and not just limited too only Opensource tuning software.

For the most part Opensource software is no different than Cobb’s Accessport or Ecutek. Your laptop, along with the purchase of a Tactrix cable, is basically used as the Accessport. The AP is better suited for those that want a very straight forward “plug and play” solution. The Opensource stuff does take a little more computer know how and a little more patience but is a great solution. Just because you choose to go the Opensource route it does not mean you have to tune your own car from scratch. This seems to be on of the bigger “misconception/myths” out there as far as Opensource software is concerned.

There are free premade base maps available on Romraiders site (in the “base map” subforum) or XPT’s forums (you need to register first to have access) but they are use at your own risk. You can also have a tuner dynotune or roadtune your car using Opensource,which then they will install the final map for you. Or you can purchase premade custom maps from professional tuners to use as well that usually include remote support. This is know as “E-tuning/remote tuning”. You can load the map,take some datalogs and then send them back to the tuner. The tuner can then analyze the logs to see if there are any potential problems. If so then the tuner can retweak the map and send the newly modified map back to you.These maps are generally much more reliable than Cobb’s OTS maps as they are more custom suited for your car. It is imperative to make sure you vehicles battery is in tip-top shape as well as your laptop before trying to flash your vehicle. I generally have my laptop plugged in to a 120v outlet when I flash. Also I highly suggest reading all of the FAQ’s on Romraider’s website before flashing your car! Make sure you fully understand the possible risks of flashing your vehicle and understand completely the procedure!

There are also very cool utility/spreadsheets that can be used for those interested in tuning on their own. These utility/spreadsheets help make the tuning process easier and are helpful in finding potential problems. There is the ability to create a “road dynagraph” from your logs as well as boost graphs,AFR graphs,timing……what ever info you want to plot! Very cool for fine tuning! Also there is a down and dirty Newbie tuning guide available on NASIOC created by Bad Noodle. It is recommended to have a good set of gauges. Boost/Vac(psi/inHg),EGT and oil pressure. Wideband is highly recommended for any engine management but crucial for self tuning. I highly suggest reading as much info as possible before just jumping into tuning on your own. Please read the info first,then ask questions!

Software:
Romraider (editor/logger) www.romraider
Ecuflash (editor/flash utility) Main Page – OpenECU
Ecuexplorer (logger/flash utility)
Ecuedit (editor/logger/flash utility) ecuEdit • Index page
Virtual Dyno http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show….php?t=2157391

Hardware:
tactrix
EvoScan OBDII Mitsubishi MUTII DataLogger Scantool

Tuning/user info:

http://www.enginelogics.com/engine-management-basics/

Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Knowledge / ECU
A Complete Tuning Guide – NASIOC
RomRaider – Open Source ECU Tools | Documentation / Rom Raider FAQ
RomRaider – Open Source ECU Tools | Documentation / Tuning FAQ
RomRaider/Ecuflash getting started FAQ – NASIOC
RomRaider • View forum – Tuning Utilities and Spreadsheets
RomRaider • View forum – How-To Guides
RomRaider • View forum – Base Maps
RomRaider • View topic – Turbo dynamics and boost control explained
RomRaider • View topic – Subaru’s knock control strategy explained
RomRaider • View topic – Closed Loop to Open Loop fueling transition explained
OPENSOURCE HOW TO: Flash your ecu useing opensource software – Subaru WRX Forum: WRX Forums
YouTube – How to flash a map to your Subaru using EcuFlash
OSecuroms & XPT Tuning •Index page
۰۲ Open Source NO Programming Voltage – NASIOC
programming voltage is 4.2 volts programming voltage is too ECU FLASH ERROR – NASIOC
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show….php?t=2277357
Books:
Amazon.com: How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems (Motorbooks Workshop) (9780760315828): Jeff Hartman: Books
Amazon.com: Engine Management: Advanced Tuning (9781932494426): Greg Banish: Books
Amazon.com: Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, and Installing Turbocharger Systems (Engineering and Performance) (9780837601601): Corky Bell: Books
Amazon.com: Turbo: Real-World High-Performance Turbocharger Systems (S-A Design) (9781932494297): Jay K. Miller: Books

Misc Tuning info:
Engine Management FAQ: Read if you are thinking of buying one! – NASIOC
Full DIY: GM solenoid install (56k warning) – NASIOC
new hybrid mbc/ebc method of boost control – NASIOC
RomRaider • View topic – 16bit Boost Control
RomRaider • View topic – Help me steady my boost during spool
RomRaider • View topic – gm bcs tunning help
RomRaider • View topic – FMIC tuning.. Anybody?
RomRaider • View topic – Tuning for a larger TMIC
RomRaider • View topic – How to tell if turbo efficiency is maxed?
How to adjust your wastegate arm – Subaru WRX Forum: WRX Forums
Aftermarket Boost Control Solenoids – Subaru WRX Forum: WRX Forums
Questions regarding GMBCS – Subaru WRX Forum: WRX Forums
http://www.cobbtuning.com/Technical-…es-s/70675.htm
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti…ost-creep.html
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show….php?t=1914025
How Subaru’s Factory Boost Control System Works – COBB Forums
RomRaider • View topic – Why MBC’s?

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AFR

اکتبر 28, 2014
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Comments Closed

http://tunertools.com/articles/AFR-Tuning.asp

Tweaking the Recipe

If you’ve been following the past article (Volumetric Efficiency Explained in Issue #2 and Load Calculation and Control in Issue #3) you should have a grasp on the basic recipe for tuning your engine.  Similar to that secret family recipe variation of a common dish though, this mix requires personalized tweaking to take it from just a basic out of the box “heat-and-serve” style tune to something unique and optimized for your vehicle. This process requires patience, attention to detail and just a dash of artistic flare.  The good news, however, is that there are many tools that are easily accessible the helping you with this task, and some of them may even already be installed on your vehicle from the factory.

 The Ratio

We begin by first understanding exactly what we are tuning and why. The topic of interest here is the Air to Fuel Ratio (AFR) which is, as may be self-explanatory, the ratio of air to fuel in the combustion chamber.  This ratio influences the behavior of the combustion process and will make the difference between maximum (and safe) power and/or torque and potential catastrophic engine failure.  Because just a small difference in ratio can dramatically change the reaction, it is critical to understand not only the how, but the why when tuning fuel mix based on AFR.

It must once again be stressed that we should treat the engine as essentially a large air pump. At this point, however, you should have a strong grasp on the how, what and whys of the air flow in an engine and have maximized these aspects before moving on to tuning air fuel ratios. At this point we will first determine the theoretical air fuel ratio based on desired performance, and then begin manipulating the amount of ratio and adjusting the mixture from our theoretical baseline to account for dynamic engine conditions, additional engine modifications, drivability and other variables which influence combustion and an engines air consumption.

A reaction in which all components are completely consumed is considered to be stoichiometric (stoich). For gasoline/petrol this mixture is approximately 14.7 parts air, to 1 part fuel (14.7:1) for E85 this ratio is approximately 9.7:1 (note these ratios are approximate based on theoretical data assuming perfect laboratory samples, these ratios may vary slightly due to variations in regional and seasonal blends of fuel.)  A ratio which has more fuel left over (ratios lower than stoich) are referred to as rich, while those higher, and thus having excess air, are lean. In all but very specific and extreme cases rich ratios should be the goal, this is due to combustion and flame behavior as well as safety reasons and avoiding accidental ignition of the mixture as leaner mixtures are easier to ignite.

AFR Lambda (λ)
۱۴٫۷:۱ ۱ Stochiometric
۱۲٫۸:۱ ۰٫۸۷ Lean Best Torque (LBT)
۱۲٫۲:۱ ۰٫۸۳ Mean Best Torque (MBT)
۱۱٫۷۶:۱ ۰٫۸ Rich Best Torque (RBT)
۱۱٫۰۱:۱ ۰٫۷۵ Flame speed fastest in cylinder

The table gives a basic overview of AFRs influence over engine behavior and dynamics and should serve as a general guide when determining air fuel ratios at full power/Wide-open-throttle. Assuming knock is not a limiting factor, Mean Best Torque should serve as a general starting point (if knock is a factor, more fuel, less spark advance, or less boot/compression will generally be required.) Note that best torque does not occur and the fastest flame speed.  Any ratios richer than 11.01:1 should be avoided, as there is a very sharp and rapid decrease in torque at ratios richer than this point. Worth mentioning is also the fact that we may often see ratios leaner than 12.8:1, which is where lean best torque occurs. While this may sacrifice a small amount of torque the fuel economy and emissions at peak power can be improve which may be desirable (and necessary) on many street/pollution controlled vehicles.

This chart should be used as a guide; there are many other factors which will also influence your tuning and target air fuel ratio. Smooth idle, throttle response, fuel economy, emissions and general drivability. Typically target ratios should increase fuel (become more rich) as load and RPMs increase and approach the peak torque power band.

Note about Lambda vs AFR

You may have noticed in the table that Air-Fuel Ratio has an equivalent value called Lambda (λ).  Lambda is representative of the stoichiometric ratio where a λ=۱ will always be stoichiometric, regardless of the fuel in use.  Other ratios are simply defined as a ratio in relation to stoich. For example, a ratio of  ۱۱٫۷۶:۱ would be: 11.76/14.7 = 0.8. This simplified measurement is very useful, in fact, most oxygen sensors actually read in values of lambda, as they are actually measuring the ratio of free air in the gas mixture, and thus the ratio in regards to stoich. This simple process allows vehicles to also quickly adjust to differing fuel types. Most modern flex fuel vehicles that run on both E85 and petrol/gasoline have done away with the expensive alcohol sensors and rely on the oxygen sensor to determine what the mixture of fuel is and reference the appropriate map accordingly.

Measuring up

Knowing the exact ratio at any given moment is critical to tweaking the recipe to achieve the desired performance and engine goals.  Thankfully there are tools which easily allow us access to this data, and at the heart of any of these tools is the oxygen sensor. An oxygen sensor basically works by reacting to unburned oxygen in the exhaust stream via a chemical reaction between this free oxygen, and the material in the tip of the sensor. This reaction causes the sensor to emit a voltage, which is then read by the controller and/or ecu to determine air/fuel ratio.  There are variations in types of controllers, sensors and settings for oxygen sensors, understanding which one is right for each situation is an important step in tuning your engine.

Closed or Open loop?

These terms refer to the control method being used by the engine management system and determine how any information received from the oxygen monitoring sensors is used and applied.  The loop refers to the path of data. In a closed loop system, data from the oxygen sensor is relayed to the engine management system. The control system will then use this information to determine if the engine is operating at the desired ratio, based on the programmed tables in the tune, and then adjusts fueling as necessary. This allows the engine to more accurately maintain the requested air to fuel ratio. Note, however, that if the base tune in inaccurate this method will cause the system to “seek” and constantly add or subtract fuel as it tries to maintain control. This will appear as the AFR fluctuating around the desired value. This can cause degraded performance, hinder tuning efforts, and even cause harmful engine damage.

Additional closed loop control is possible in systems using fuel trims. Fuel trims are a representation of the amount the control system is altering the fueling tables to achieve the requested AFR. Short term fuel trims are the instantaneous adjustments made by the control system and can be used by a tuner to monitor, log and apply the changes the system is making during closed loop to help tune the engine. In more complex control system long term fuel trims are used to apply changes to the base tune. The long term trim will average changes made in each site over a pre-determined time period. Once the time period or number of data points have been met, it will change the base tune by a calculated value to help dial in the base tune and correct for changes in the engine or permanent operating conditions.

The equation to determine % change of the injected value of V.E. based on AFR is:

% Change = Actual AFR/Desired AFR *100%

Open loop systems do not use this data to make on the fly changes. This mode is desired in operations where rapidly changing engine conditions may make closed loop control difficult or dangerous. Wide open throttle and very heavy loads are examples of such conditions. Since conditions change faster than the sensor is capable of reading and the changing the mixture, closed loop control may allow for very rich or lean conditions at precisely the moment they would be the most dangerous. Again, having an accurate and complete tune is critical in these conditions to maximize performance and engine longevity.

Wideband vs Narrowband

There are two main differences when speaking about types of controllers and methods of measuring air fuel ratios: Narrowband and Wideband. Both are very useful tools in tuning and deserve a thorough discussion and understanding. Understanding how they work and when to use each method will simplify your tuning efforts and increase the quality and accuracy of the tuning and control strategy.

Narrowband

The oxygen sensors traditionally used by most OEM manufacturers are a Narrowband type sensor. These sensors are used to measure AFR in a very narrow range (thus the name) and are only accurate within this narrow area. The sensor will normally have a 0-1 voltage output and will be most accurate around a lambda of 1 (stoichiometric). The intent of these sensors, as equipped by the factory, is to control the vehicle in controlled loop operations, such as cruising on the highway as well as monitoring to pollution control systems of the vehicle. These operations are critical for maintain proper emissions and maximizing fuel economy and performance.

The drawback of these sensors comes precisely from this narrow accuracy band. Outside of this range, which is approximately 14.2 to 15.0, the sensor cannot be accurately relied upon for any changes, and it thus ignored. This prevents their use in applications such as wide open throttle or heavier load, where the conditions are too fast or ratios out of these ranges are desired. Recall from the table earlier in this article that for maximum power and torque the ratios are far outside this range. This limits the use of a Narrowband sensor to cruising and light load use only. It is, however, much more accurate than a wideband sensor in this range and is still a vital tuning in properly tuning a well rounded street vehicle.

Wideband

Wideband sensors, on the other hand, have a 0-5v output and a much wider accuracy range (The Innovate Motorsports sensor is accurate from ratios of 7.35 to 22.39 for example.) This increased range allows the sensor to measure the ratio accurately in all engine conditions. This information is critical when tuning your engine, as most of your tuning will focus on areas other than light load and cruising. Additionally, depending on the speed of the sensor and ability of the engine management system, can be used to create a closed loop control system in conditions other than just cruising. This control allows the engine to automatically adapt to changing conditions and correct for inaccuracies in the tune (as previously mentioned, and worth repeating however – closed loop, should NEVER be used as a “band-aid” for an incomplete tune.)

The final product

The air to fuel ratio is simply a representation of the most basic ingredients of combustion. Understanding how this ratio influences engine behavior is critical to controlling and tuning your engine and will be where most tuning efforts will begin. The main tool for monitoring this ratio is the oxygen sensors and controller and they are an integral part of modern vehicle control systems. In controls systems both open and closed loop controls will be necessary to ensure safe and controlled operation – and through the use of narrowband and wideband controllers it is possible to tune your vehicle for maximum performance, while also maximizing fuel economy, emissions and drivability – all of which are critical for a modern street vehicle.

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در مورد FA20 بیشتر بدانیم

اکتبر 14, 2014
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Comments Closed

تویوتا ۸۶ موتور تخت هست با کد FA20 ، در موردش تو این سایت مطالب جالبی نوشته :

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/sstp-1301-how-boxer-engines-work/

Flat engines like Subaru’s Boxer are nothing new. The design, which gives the finger to inline and V-type engines and instead incorporates horizontally opposed banks of pistons, was patented in 1896 and has since been implemented by Volkswagen, Porsche, and most notably, Subaru. The Boxer layout, which positions its cylinders in two banks—۱۸۰-degrees apart from one another and on each side of the crankshaft—has been used on everything from commercial airplanes to bikes like Honda’s early Goldwings to cars as modest as Volkswagen’s Beetle and as shameless as Porsche’s 911 Turbo, with cylinder arrangements featuring as many as 12 pistons. In the 1960s, Subaru fully adopted the Boxer design, which today remains the company’s exclusive engine configuration.

Subaru’s reason for that is simple: The Boxer’s horizontally opposed layout lends itself well to low centers of gravity and exceptional weight bias, like in the case of their BRZ and the company’s jointly built Scion FR-S where the engine’s pistons and crankshaft are positioned low and laterally centered in the vehicle in ways that would otherwise be impossible for any inline or V-type engine. The results are, more often than not, better stability and better vehicle control, which is partially what makes Subaru and Toyota’s latest creation’s so special.

How Boxer Engines Work

The Boxer design isn’t all that complicated and isn’t all that different from any other engine that takes cues from the four-stroke instruction manual. Imagine a 60-degree V-type engine where its two banks of pistons form its V shape. Now imagine a 90-degree V-type engine where its two banks of pistons form an even wider V shape. Increase that V shape by another 90-degrees and you’ve got a Boxer engine. As it turns out, it wouldn’t be an entirely cockamamie thing to say that the Boxer layout is indeed just a 180-degree V-type engine.

Boxer engines get their name from their pistons that simultaneously move toward and away from one another in a horizontal plane, much like boxers clashing their gloves together before a fight. Their opposing banks of pistons that reach TDC (top dead center) at the same time is in stark contrast to V-type engines where countering piston movements alternate from bank to bank. The Boxer’s side-to-side movement of any two corresponding pistons cancels out each other’s vibrations caused by reciprocation and ignition forces in ways that inline and V-type engines never could without complicated crankshaft counterweight and dampening systems. But that doesn’t mean that four-cylinder Boxer engines are free of complications. Since each opposing cylinder is associated with its own crank throw (unlike V-type engines where multiple cylinders share the same throw), their axis are offset from one another, which results in reciprocating torque known as “rocking couple.”

The FA20 Engine

Subaru’s latest 2.0L Boxer engine isn’t its most powerful, but tuners everywhere are beginning to understand why it might be so special. Perhaps the best thing about the FA20 is its engine cover, or the fact that it doesn’t have one at all. The missing hunk of matte-black plastic is just the beginning, though. As you’d expect, the engine is a hodgepodge of Subaru and Toyota technology. Although, at first glance, the FA20 appears to be entirely Subaru, its square configuration is very much Toyota-like and, rumor is its cylinder heads were developed by Yamaha, who’s no stranger to Toyota cylinder head development.

Subaru’s all-new 2.0L FA-series engine was designed and built specifically for the BRZ/FR-S. To help achieve the sort of handling and control its creators were looking for, the FA20 was made more compact than previous four-cylinder Boxer engines by developing a shorter intake manifold and shallower oil pan. FA20 engines even sit lower to better optimize the car’s center of gravity and overall balance, something that remains instrumental to the satisfaction of driving the BRZ/FR-S.

At the heart of the four-cylinder FA20 are an aluminum block and cylinder heads that, together with all of their internals, result in an impressive 12.5:1 compression ratio, and chain-driven dual-overhead camshafts. At only 200hp and 151lb-ft of torque, the BRZ/FR-S isn’t straight-line fast. It was never meant to be. As it turns out, 200hp, when paired with a 2,762lb chassis (a remarkably low vehicle weight by 2012’s standards) and with everything strategically positioned for optimum balance, isn’t all that far off the mark. The BRZ/FR-S was designed to provide the best overall driver’s experience, not to satiate boy racer stoplight-to-stoplight tendencies. Even so, the FA20’s power rating is nothing to turn your nose up to, especially when considering its modest engine size, the results of which are one of the most impressive specific engine outputs on the planet, measuring in at 100hp per liter.

The Intake

The FA20’s symmetrical 86mm bore and 86mm stroke gives further credence to the square bore philosophy that allows for high-rpm capabilities but without sacrificing proper heat dissipation. Subaru also implemented its AVCS (Active Valve Control System), which features variable valve timing on both intake and exhaust cams. To be sure, AVCS is partially what gives the FA20 its broad torque curve and high-rpm capabilities, all the way to its 7,400rpm redline. Subaru’s variable valve timing technology, much like other manufacturers’ systems, uses hydraulic pressure to manipulate valve timing according to engine load. Unlike previous Subaru engines, though, the FA20’s AVCS sensors and solenoids are positioned differently. The new chain-driven camshafts now allow for a smaller AVCS mechanism and a design that’s, overall, much more impact-resistant when compared to its predecessors.

The FA20’s intake feeds into a three-inch O.D. electronically controlled throttle body that’s bigger than the STI’s (2.75-inch O.D.) and will likely be the last restriction to unlocking power. The first thing to notice on the BRZ/FR-S intake is that it’s fed from cold-air utopia, directly in front of the radiator, outside of the engine bay. Once inside the intake pipe, air passes through a plastic wall with several small holes to help reduce turbulence. Once inside the air box, air passes through the actual filter element, past the MAF sensor and into the rubber hose that feeds into the throttle body. Unlike other systems prevalent today, the path is short and isn’t entirely convoluted. Although improving on the actual intake piping isn’t easy, the filter element itself isn’t terribly large and gains can be found by increasing its surface area. As with any MAF-based vehicle, changes to the intake tubing diameter and shape can create turbulence, which can cause confusion between the MAF and the ECU, which can lead to rich or lean conditions, depending on the circumstance. Aftermarket manufacturers are currently reporting gains as high as 14hp by switching to larger-diameter, tapered, molded polymer-type intake systems that increase airflow and reduce intake air temperatures.

The Exhaust

Because of the Boxer’s 180-degree orientation and traditionally unequal-length exhaust manifold, its sound remains unique and is often mistaken for a misfire by schmucks who don’t know what a proper Boxer should sound like. The primary tubes’ varying lengths randomize the travel time for exiting exhaust pulses as they make their way toward their collector. It’s these out-of-phase pulses that lead to Subaru’s unique Boxer sound.

Forget all of that, though, because the FA20’s exhaust system is where it separates itself from almost every other Boxer. It begins with a more conventional, equal-length, 4-2-1 header—another very un-Subaru-like detail—which is why the BRZ/FR-S doesn’t sound like any other Subaru and which is why the FA20 is capable of 100hp per liter. Despite all of this, the FA20’s header has two strikes against it: although it features generous 1.625-inch primaries and 1.75-inch secondaries (diameters that arguably won’t be tampered with much by the aftermarket), its merge collectors aren’t all that efficient and its built-in ceramic-core catalytic converter will stymy proper airflow. Longer primary tubes, a proper collector and ditching the cat will all improve performance.

From the header, exhaust gases pass through a short pipe that travels over the subframe, through another pipe that hosts another catalytic converter, into a mid-pipe, and finally through the muffler. Each pipe after the header and before the muffler measures only 2.118-inches in diameter and features a series of non-mandrel bends and clearance dimples, which means there’s plenty of room for improvement. Of course, the muffler itself isn’t a high-flowing core so there’s further potential trapped there. Increasing the piping diameter to at least 2.5 inches from the header to the muffler is a good place to start looking for ways to unlock the FA20’s potential. All of this is reportedly good far upwards of 15hp, according to tuners, which isn’t too bad when considering the FA20’s already impressive horsepower-per-liter ratio. Besides improved performance, most aftermarket exhaust systems, despite their larger diameters, will also shave upwards of 15lbs from the BRZ/FR-S’s already lightweight. Of course, if low emissions is your primary concern, then you’ll need to rethink everything you’ve just read since eliminating the header’s cat is the key to a proper high-flowing exhaust system.

The Fuel System

Although the brunt of the FA20 is of Subaru’s doing, Toyota is responsible for the engine’s unorthodox but effective D-4S (Direct Injection 4-Stroke Gasoline Engine Superior Version) fuel injection system, which is a combination of direct injection and conventional port injection technologies, and is derived from the company’s D-4 direct injection system that debuted in Japan in the mid-’۹۰s. Toyota’s D-4S direct injection system works like any other direct injection system, spraying fuel directly into the combustion chambers instead of upstream, helping further cool the cylinders and create a more efficient burn. But Toyota’s D-4S direct injection system also works unlike any other direct injection system, relying on a conventional port injection configuration. While the direct injection side allows for the FA20’s high compression ratio without the consequences of detonation, upstream and working in parallel with the direct injection system, the engine’s four, 205cc/min Denso port injectors help promote complete combustion and are crucial to cold-start emissions. For the FA20’s combination fuel injection system to work properly, an abnormally high-pressure mechanical fuel pump is used that’s driven by the cams. A more conventional in-tank fuel pump is also used to transfer fuel from the tank to the mechanical pump. Once leaving the mechanical pump, fuel is pushed to each port injector. Toyota’s hybrid of a fuel injection system isn’t simple, but just might be the holy grail balance of emissions versus power.

A total of eight fuel injectors on a 200hp, normally aspirated four-cylinder means two things: One, the FA20’s capacity to provide enough fuel will never be questioned and, two, like the equal-length header, the three-inch throttle body, and the engine’s square bore geometry, it’s almost as if Subaru and Toyota developed the FA20 specifically for those of us who can’t stand plastic engine covers.

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در مورد هدرز بیشتر بدانیم

اکتبر 13, 2014
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Comments Closed

میدونید با تعویض هدر وضعیت خروج گازها بهتر میشه و میتونید قدرت رو افزایش بدید.

مقاله زیر جالبه :

The Hows And Whys Of Headers

Along with a better-flowing intake and exhaust system, headers are among the first bolt-ons that any naturally-aspirated believer has got to consider. Together they help eliminate restrictions within an engine’s intake and exhaust tracts, making them essential to anyone who’s done clowning around when it comes to making more power.

Photo 1/7 | The process of generating more horsepower from headers is nearly as old as the internal combustion engine itself. In more recent history, Honda and Mugen employed many strategies that are still used today with its 10-cylinder Formula One engines, like equal-length primary tubing to help better promote exhaust gas scavenging.

What Exhaust Manifolds Do

All internal combustion engines use some sort of exhaust manifold to merge exhaust gases exiting the cylinder head’s ports into the catalytic converter, past the muffler, and into the atmosphere. The configurations are many; some feature a tubular design, some are integrated directly into the cylinder head, but most are manufactured from cast iron and feature a log-shaped layout. Log manifolds are cost-effective and lend themselves well to saving space underneath the hood. Because of their construction and shape, they also heat up quickly, which allows the catalytic converter to do its job more effectively. But log manifolds don’t do much for horsepower.

What Headers Do

A header is an exhaust manifold, only better. And more complicated. If an engine’s exhaust only puffed once, it wouldn’t be, and figuring out a header’s ideal tube length and diameter for optimal power would be easy. Instead, a typical four-cylinder engine at 8,000 rpm spits out more than 67 exhaust pulses per second, per cylinder, complicating and muddling up the whole process.

Headers are based off of a series of tubes with smooth, gradual bends that allow each cylinder its own means of exhaust gas evacuation as opposed to factory-issued manifolds that simply gather up all of the exhaust gases near the head and dump them into what’s more often than not a turd-shaped log. Primary tubes span from the cylinder head to a collector where exhaust gases from each cylinder join before entering the remainder of the exhaust system. Like the intake side, air velocity is important, except here its own energy must be harnessed to evacuate the cylinders. Instead of doing all of this by means of positive pressure like the intake side, negative pressure generated near the exhaust valves helps suck unwanted exhaust gases from the cylinders. The hard part is figuring out a way to not just increase that negative pressure but to control it so that it occurs within the exhaust ports at exactly the right time.

Photo 2/7   |   An aftermarket header should only be added as part of a well-balanced engine program that includes some sort of high-flow intake and exhaust system.
Photo 3/7   |   OEM exhaust manifolds are typically made from cast iron and feature log-shaped designs. Here, packaging restraints and catalytic converter efficiency trump performance.

Wave Resonance Tuning And More Power

Compared to log manifolds, headers can make more power in three ways, one of which is wave resonance tuning. Once the exhaust valves open, a high-pressure stream of exhaust gases forced out by the upward-moving piston begins exiting the cylinder head, creating a pressure pulse. Once that pulse reaches the end of a particular primary tube, a reverse wave travels back up, creating a low-pressure void near the exhaust valves. Wave resonance tuning by means of calculated primary tube lengths allows this low-pressure wave pulse to occur at exactly the right time—during the cylinder’s overlap period that happens as the exhaust stroke concludes and the intake stroke begins. (In case you’ve forgotten, overlap happens when a cylinder’s intake and exhaust valves are both open for a brief period of time.) When coordinated properly, the results are a suction effect that evacuates additional exhaust gases and, in some cases, can even draw the air/fuel mixture into the combustion chamber from the intake side. The process is known as scavenging.

Pulse Tuning And More Power

The length of a header’s primary tubes affects its powerband. You knew all of that, but you might not know why. The primary tube’s overall length and diameter determine how much of that negative pressure we talked about will build up and when it’ll do its job. Exhaust gas velocity doesn’t change much, so it’s the primary tube’s length and diameter that determines when all of this happens. Tuned primary tube lengths can help snake-charm additional exhaust gases out of the engine during each exhaust stroke. The optimal length is one that corresponds to the exact time in crankshaft degrees that the engine’s exhaust valves begin to open. As you’d expect, the math is complex, and different engines require different length primary tubes depending on a variety of factors, like the desired powerband.

Backpressure And More Power

Reducing exhaust gas backpressure is worth mentioning but isn’t as important as old-time hot rodders would have you believe. To be sure, wave resonance and pulse tuning are the real keys to whether or not a header makes more power. Still, backpressure does play a role. Unlike log manifolds, a header’s longer primary tubes prevent exhaust gases from cross-contaminating between cylinders, which can bungle up the evacuation process. Headers also reduce backpressure through more efficient designs, which reduce restrictions and increase pumping efficiencies—all good things if you care about stuff like horsepower.

The Collector

Every header has some sort of collector where each cylinder’s high-speed exhaust gases meet and are diffused after flowing through their respective primary tubes. A properly designed collector can increase an engine’s powerband and yield more high-RPM power by decreasing turbulence and increasing exhaust gas velocity. Once inside, exhaust gases either exit through the remainder of the system, past the muffler or bounce back toward the exhaust valves as low-pressure pulses. A properly designed collector does more than serve as a junction for exhaust gases, though. Here, cylinders with opposing firing orders are paired together so that one’s exhaust pulse energy won’t interfere with another’s, further reducing cross-contamination. A good merge collector will do all of this in a smooth, tapered manner, which results in a more impressive powerband.

Anti-Reversion Properties

Reversion is bad. It has to do with the unwanted exhaust gases that travel backwards through the exhaust system when exhaust gas velocity is low and scavenging is minimal. Under those conditions, exhaust gases can enter the intake side, contaminating the combustion process. Anti-reversion headers incorporate primary tubes with a stepped design, which increase in diameter shortly after exiting the cylinder head, and a direction-sensitive cone that keeps exhaust flow moving in the right direction. When done properly, anti-reversion steps can help prevent unwanted exhaust gas reversion, resulting in a broader powerband and more torque.

Tri-Y vs. Four-Into-One

Tri-Y (four-into-two-into-one) headers are one of the most popular four-cylinder header layouts, which incorporate four primary tubes that transition into two, all before merging into a single collector. The alternative is the four-into-one header in which all four primary tubes merge into a single collector. Tri-Y headers care less about camshaft profiles and overlap than four-into-one designs do and are best suited for applications where a broad powerband is desired. The Tri-Y design also lends itself to the opposed-firing-order pairing mentioned earlier. Here, when exhaust gases enter the collector, reflected waves are also sent back up opposing cylinders with their exhaust valves still shut, creating a secondary pulse that’s out of phase with the corresponding main pulse but assisting it, helping broaden the powerband at the expense of some peak power. Scavenging doesn’t happen quite as well here because of the secondary pulse’s interference, but it happens for a longer period of time when compared to four-into-one designs.

Photo 4/7   |   The Tri-Y design is among the most popular header configurations. Notice how the header’s four primary tubes merge into two before meeting at its collector. This particular layout is also referred to as a four-into-two-into-one header.
Photo 5/7   |   The four-into-one design generally lends itself to engines that seek power gains within a specific powerband. Typically, four-into-one headers will provide more peak power than Tri-Y designs but over a narrower powerband.

Other Considerations

Headers with shorter and larger-diameter primary tubes are generally better suited for high-RPM power while those with longer, thinner tubes lend themselves better to mid-range output. We’ve already talked about the relationship between valve overlap and header design. As such, before choosing a header, you’ll want to consider when your engine’s exhaust valves begin to open. Typically, headers with shorter, larger tubes will respond better to engines with exhaust valves that open late. And if you have a twin-cam engine with adjustable cam gears, more power can also be found by fooling around with overlap after installing a header. When choosing a header, one with a smooth, tapered merged collector is never a bad thing. You’ll also want to consider the header’s construction. In terms of materials, 14- or 16-gauge mild-steel steel tubing is ideal as are thick flanges and the appropriate gaskets and corrosion-resistant hardware. If longevity and anti-corrosion are concerns (and they should be), consider stainless steel or ceramic-coated mild steel. Emissions legality and whether or not whatever header you’re considering features all of the provisions for any oxygen sensors or catalytic converters that your engine may require should also be considered. Finally, don’t forget that, like any engine upgrade, a header is only part of the puzzle.

Headers don’t look terribly complex but designing one that works well requires all sorts of complicated math and fancy physics. Along with an engine’s intake, throttle body, intake manifold, camshaft, cylinder head ports and exhaust system, headers are an important part of an engine’s airflow path and must be addressed and modified as a system. Matching a $1,500 four-into-one race header with anti-reversion chambers and a tapered collector to an engine with an OEM airbox will never make sense, so plan your upgrades accordingly.

Photo 6/7   |   A header can take many forms; what’s important is that its bends are smooth and that its tubes are properly sized for the application.
Photo 7/7   |   Header design can vary significantly depending on engine configuration and cylinder count but the properties that make them perform well or fail don’t change.
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FA20DIT 2015 Subaru WRX STi

سپتامبر 27, 2014
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Comments Closed

مطالب بسیار بسیار جالب از انجمن زیر، همونطور که میدونید سوبارو تو مدل ۲۰۱۵ وی آر ایکس از سری موتور های EJ سوئیچ کرد و بر پایه FA20D رفت FA20F رو ساخت که به FA20 DIT میشناسیمش :

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2623235

This thread is a compilation of useful information regarding the new 2015 Subaru WRX and STI. My goal with this is to post links to thread posts, videos or webpages with factual information regarding the new models.

If anyone find/discovers any new information on the 2015 models post it here & i’ll update this post. Or if you find a thread that has decent discussion on any particular topic link it. OR if you disagree and/or feel any of the information is incorrect please quote it and post the corrections.

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General Information Resources:

۲۰۱۵ WRX / STI Owners Manual Links:

  1. http://www.joomag.com/magazine/mag/0…=;solid,ffffff
  2. http://www.subaru.ca/WebPage.aspx?We…&WebSiteID=282
  3. http://www.iwsti.com/images/2015-sti…ers-manual.pdf

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۲۰۱۵ WRX & STI Performance Numbers:

  • ۰-۶۰:
    • (۶MT): 5.4 sec (Subaru), 4.8 sec (C&D redlining in 2nd), 5.2 sec (Road & Track) 5.5 sec (Motor Trend), 5.4 sec (Edmunds), 5.2 sec (Edmunds w/1 ft rollout)
    • (CVT): 5.9 sec (Subaru), 5.8 sec (Motor Trend)
    • (STI): 4.6 sec (Motor Trend), 4.8 sec (Road & Track)
  • ۱/۴ Mile:
    • (۶MT): 13.6 sec @ 102 mph (Car & Driver), 13.7 sec @ 99.5 mph (Road & Track), 14.0 sec @ 98.1mph (Motor Trend), 13.8 sec @ 99.8 mph (Edmunds)
    • (CVT): 14.5 sec @ 96.7 mph (Motor Trend)
    • (STI): 13.1 sec @ 104.4 mph (Motor Trend), 13.3 sec @ 102.8 mph (Road & Track)
  • Top Speed:
    • (۶MT) 144 mph (Gov Ltd, Mfg’s Claim), 174 mph (Road & Track @ redline estimate)
    • (STI) 155 mph (Road & Track @ redline estimate)
  • Figure Eight:
    • (۶MT): 25.3 sec @ 0.76g avg (Motor Trend)
    • (CVT): 25.5 sec @ 0.73g avg (Motor Trend)
    • (STI): 24.9 sec @ 0.79g avg (Motor Trend)
  • Slalom:
    • (۶MT): 70.1 mph (Edmunds)
  • Skidpad:
    • (۶MT): 0.95g avg (Car & Driver), 0.96g avg (Motor Trend), 0.94g (Edmunds)
    • (CVT): 0.93g avg (Motor Trend)
    • (STI): 0.97g avg (Motor Trend)
  • Braking 60-0mph:
    • (۶MT): 106 ft (Motor Trend), 110 ft (Edmunds)
    • (CVT): 107 ft (Motor Trend)
    • (STI): 108 ft (Motor Trend)
  • Braking 70-0mph:
    • (۶MT): 160 ft (Car & Driver)

DYNO Results:

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Engine:

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Suspension / Brakes:

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Wheels/Tires:

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Interior:

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Exterior:

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Stereo / Speakers:

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Lighting:

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Dealer/Factory Accessories:

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Specifications:

  • WRX FA20DIT Engine:
    • Bore x Stroke: 3.39 x 3.39 in, 86.0mm x 86.0mm
    • Displacement: 122 cu in, 1998 cc
    • Compression Ratio: 10.6:1
    • Fuel Delivery System: gasoline direct injection, electronic throttle control (ETC), twin-scroll turbocharger with intercooler
    • Turbocharger: Honeywell
    • Maximum Boost Pressure: 15.9 psi
    • Valve Gear: double overhead cams, 4 valves per cylinder, variable intake and exhaust valve timing
    • Redline/Fuel Cutoff: 6700/6800 rpm
    • Power: 268 hp @ 5600 rpm
    • Torque: 258 lb-ft @ 2000rpm
  • WRX 6MT Gear Ratios / Max Speed in Gear:
    • ۱: ۳٫۴۵۴:۱ / ۳۵ mph (6800)
    • ۲: ۱٫۹۴۷:۱ / ۶۲ mph (6800)
    • ۳: ۱٫۲۹۶:۱ / ۹۳ mph (6800)
    • ۴: ۰٫۹۷۲:۱ / ۱۲۴ mph (6800)
    • ۵: ۰٫۷۸۰:۱ / ۱۴۴ mph (6350)
    • ۶: ۰٫۶۶۶:۱ / ۱۴۴ mph (5400)
    • Reverse: 3.636:1
    • Final Drive: 4.11:1
  • CVT Gear Ratios:
    • ۱: ۳٫۵۰۵:۱ (S#: 3.505:1)
    • ۲: ۲٫۲۳۸:۱ (S#: 2.405:1)
    • ۳: ۱٫۶۴۱:۱ (S#: 1.855:1)
    • ۴: ۱٫۱۹۴:۱ (S#: 1.544:1)
    • ۵: ۰٫۸۸۰:۱ (S#: 1.258:1)
    • ۶: ۰٫۶۱۱:۱ (S#: 1.032:1)
    • ۷: (S#: 0.856:1)
    • ۸: (S#: 0.716:1)
    • Reverse: 2.345:1
    • Final Drive: 3.90:1
  • Steering Ratio: 14.5:1
  • Turns lock-to-lock: 2.8
  • Turning Circle: 35.4 ft
  • Exterior Dimensions:
    • Wheelbase: 104.3 in
    • Length: 180.9 in
    • Width: 70.7 in
    • Height: 58.1 in
    • Front Track: 60.2 in
    • Rear TracK: 60.6 in
    • Ground Clearance: 4.9 in
  • Interior Dimensions:
    • SAE Volume: 52 cu ft (Front) / 41 cu ft (Rear)
    • Trunk: 12 cu ft

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Fluids & Capacities:

  • Fuel Type:
    • WRX: 91 Octane (95 RON) or higher. 87 (90 RON) may be temporarily used if 91 is not readily available
    • STI: 93 octane (98 RON) or higher. 91 (95 RON) may be temporarily used if 93 is not readily available
    • Fuel Capacity: 15.9 US Gallons (60 liters, 13.2 Imperial Gallons)
  • Oil Type/Grade: API classification SM with the words “ENERGY-CONSERVING” or SN with the words “RESOURCE CONSERVING” or ILSAC GF-4 or GF-5 SAE Viscosity: 5W-30 Synthetic. 5W-40 may be used if 5W-30 is not readily available.
  • Oil Filter Part Number:
    • WRX: 15208AA170
    • STI: 15208AA100
  • Engine Oil Capacity:
    • WRX:
      • Adding the oil from L to F leveL: 1.1 US Quarts (1.0 Liter, 0.9 Imperial Quarts)
      • Changing the oil and oil filter: 5.4 US Quarts (5.1 Liters, 4.5 Imperial Quarts)
      • Changing the oil only: 5.2 US Quarts (4.9 Liters, 4.3 Imperial Quarts)
    • STI:
      • Adding the oil from L to F leveL: 1.1 US Quarts (1.0 Liter, 0.9 Imperial Quarts)
      • Changing the oil and oil filter: 4.5 US Quarts (4.3 Liters, 3.8 Imperial Quarts)
      • Changing the oil only: 4.2 US Quarts (4.0 Liters, 3.5 Imperial Quarts)
  • Transmission Oil Grade:
    • WRX 6MT: Subaru Extra MT recommended. API Classification GL-5 (75W-90) may be used but will detract from driveability and fuel efficiency.
    • WRX CVT: “Consult Subaru Dealer” (according to Owners Manual)
    • WRX CVT Front Differential: Subaru Extra MT recommended. API Classification GL-5 (75W-90) may be used but will detract from driveability and fuel efficiency.
    • STI 6MT: API Classification GL-5 (75W-90)
    • Rear Differential (All models): API Classification GL-5 (75W-90)
  • Transmission Oil capacity:
    • WRX 6MT: 3.5 US Quarts (3.3 Liters, 2.9 Imperial Quarts)
    • WRX CVT: 13.1 US Quarts (12.4 Liters, 10.9 Imperial Quarts)
    • WRX CVT Front Differential: 1.5 US QUarts (1.4 Liters, 1.2 Imperial Quarts)
    • STI 6MT: 4.3 US Quarts (4.1 Liters, 3.6 Imperial Quarts)
    • WRX Rear Differential (all): 0.8 US Quarts (0.8 Liters, 0.7 Imperial Quarts)
    • STI Rear Differential: 1.1 US Quarts (1.0 Liter, 0.9 Imperial Quarts)
  • Fluid Types:
    • Brake Fluid: FMVSS No. 116, Fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid
    • Clutch Fluid (MT Models): FMVSS No. 116, Fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid
    • Power Steering Fluid (STI): Subaru ATF, “Dexron III” Type Automatic Transmission Fluid, IDEMITSU ATF HP.
    • Coolant: SUBARU Super Coolant
  • Fluid Capacities:
    • Power Steering Fluid Capacity (STI): 0.7 US Quarts (0.7 Liters, 0.6 Imperial Quarts)
    • Coolant (WRX 6MT): 8.7 US Quarts (8.2 Liters, 7.2 Imperial Quarts)
    • Coolant (WRX CVT): 8.9 US Quarts (8.4 Liters, 7.4 Imperial Quarts)
    • Coolant (STI 6MT): 8.2 US Quarts (7.7 Liters, 6.8 Imperial Quarts)

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Electrical System:

  • Battery Type: 55D23L (12V-48ah)
  • Alternator: WRX: 12V-130A, STI: 12V-110A
  • Spark Plugs: WRX: NGK ILKAR8H6, STI: NGK SILFR6A

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Bulb Types:

  • High Beam Headlight: HB3 (9005)
  • Low Beam Headlight (w/out LED headlights): H11 (H8, 881)
  • Parking Light (w/out LED headlights): W5W (168/194)
  • Front Fog Light: H16 NOTE: Owners manual is WRONG. 2015 WRX & STI use PGJ19-3 base as opposed to the 5202/9009.
  • Front Turn Signal Light: WY21W (7440)
  • Front Side Marker Light: W5W (168/194)
  • Rear Turn Signal: WY21W (7440)
  • Backup Light: W16W (921, 955, T15)
  • Rear Side Marker Light: W5W (168/194)
  • License Plate Light: W5W (168/194)
  • Cargo/Trunk Light: W5W (168/194)
  • Map Light: DE3175
  • Rear Dome Light: DE3175
  • Visor/Vanity Light: 6614/6614F 6641/6641F NOTE: Owners manual is WRONG. Visor/Vanity Lights are 29mm fuse-style bulbs

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۲۰۱۵ WRX & STI Known Problems / Warranty Concerns

  • WRX & STI Trunk Chipping Issue: Reports of chipped paint on the edge of the trunk deck from contact with the rear 1/4 panel of the car. Cause to be determined but suspected that either the bumpstops/latch adjustment from the factory is too low causing contact when slamming the trunk shut OR possibly due to the tie-down straps used during shipping from Japan to North America being too tight.
  • ۲۰۱۵ WRX & STI Base Radio Glitch: when programming presets on XM radio, the steering wheel controls for changing stations increase by the # of the last preset pressed

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۲۰۱۵ WRX & STI Knowledge Base Requests
If you have a question regarding the new 2015 WRX or STI that hasn’t been answered above please post it in this thread & I’ll post it below for others to answer. I’ll update the knowledge base when the information has been confirmed. NOTE: Please do not spam up the thread with questions that have already been answered, thanks!Questions that need confirmation:

  1. FA20DIT ECU Tuning Status (Cobb, ECUtek, etc)
  2. FA20DIT Downpipe Development & options
  3. Front & Rear swaybar sizes on stock STI
  4. Do LED turn signal mirros from STI models fit WRX? Do harnesses exist under door cards? Any wiring involved?
  5. Factory Speaker depth limits for front & rear.
  6. Speaker adapter compatibility & options
  7. Subwoofer mounting locations, custom sub box options
  8. Base STI Factory Wheel Weight (to closest 10th or 100th of a lb)
  9. Limited STI Factory Wheel Weight (to closest 10th or 100th of a lb)
  10. Optional 17″ STI WRX Wheel Option Weight (to closest 10th or 100th of a lb)
  11. Wheel Offset limits for factory fenders.
  12. Lowering Spring offerings
  13. Swaybar/Endlink Offerings
  14. Suspension brace offerings
  15. Quote:
    Originally Posted by transit View Post
    I’m not sure if this has been covered, but does 15 WRXs share the same windows/windshield as 2014 Impreza?
  16. Trunk Measurements: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show….php?t=2624333

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